Diamond set watches according to Cartier-expert Geo Cramer

Throughout the years dress watches for men have always be considered to be round and flat.
And that’s actually still what a dress watch is. These watches are worn with a suit or formal outfit, during daily office work or more official events and dinners.
Cartier's Diamond Set Tank Americaine

Cartier’s Diamond Set Tank Americaine

However times have changed and the more sporty watches like Panerai  and Audemars Piguet, are often seen in combination with a suit and are common practice in the office.

Since the world is becoming smaller & smaller and countries seem to melt more into each other, regarding style and dress codes, another type of watch is getting more and more popular among men, for special events; the diamond set watch.

The Most Complicated Watch without Complications; Piaget Altiplano Automatic Gem-Set Skeleton

It has probably not gone unnoticed to most watch lovers, but recently the 2013 edition of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH for insiders) has taken place in Geneva. A true candy store for any watch connoisseur especially since this is, next to the Baselworld fair later this year, THE event where most watch manufacturers introduce their latest models.

Complicated in whole different ways!

Complicated in whole different ways!

Amongst those models were also several diamond set watches for men. It can hardly be a surprise that some of the stars in this category came from Piaget. As I already showed in the article about my visit to Piaget, do they have a tremendous expertise when it comes to incorporating diamonds in their watches. This level of expertise might very well be the benchmark of the industry, and the watch that proofs this might very well be the most desirable diamond set men’s watch available in the current collection of any watch manufacture; the Altiplano Automatic Gem-Set Skeleton!  Continue reading

The High Standards of Hautlence

Independent watch brands have, especially in the past decade, contributed tremendously to a new level of creativity in watchmaking. By applying a fresh look to movement design, complications and the way we read (and experience) time masterpieces where created that diminished the border between art and watchmaking. Interesting is that many independents have also embraced diamonds as part of their men’s collection, and there is hardly a better example for this then Hautlence.

Hautlence diamond set version of the HL02

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How Vintage Diamonds make more Magic; Rolex ref.4643

When they hear Rolex, many immediately think of some sort of Oyster-cased model from this famous brand, yet Rolex is so much more. Especially in the past, they also made beautiful dress watches….and yes, even those where available with diamonds!

A great dial made better!

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Chopard Imperiale Tourbillon Full Set; The Ladies Watch Men Prefer

The Imperiale collection has been around for quite some time and has proven to be a classic within Chopard’s line-up. And why wouldn’t it be? The watch is very recognizable, and has an exotic look without being eccentric.

Ultimate craftsmanship in both movement as gem-setting techniques

Exotic for certain is the Imperiale Tourbillon full set; this watch combines Haute Horlogerie with Haute Joaillerie in an almost unmatched way. First of all the movement is as good as it gets; L.U.C 02-14-L is a manual wind movement that uses Chopard’s patented Quattro-technology.  Here two main spring barrels are stacked upon each other, placed next to another stack of two and coupled in serie. This results in a more then impressive power reserve of  216 hours, or more then 9 days. You might just forget that you are wearing a manual wind movement….. Continue reading

The Quality of Diamonds in Watches; Clarity

Diamonds come in a wide variety of qualities. Some will be set in your watch while others serve no other purpose than to be grind up and applied on for example the cutting edges of your power tools. The diamonds actually used in jewellery and watches are what is called “gem-quality”. Only 20% of all diamonds found are of gem-quality. But even amongst gem-quality diamonds there is quite an extensive range, differing between diamonds that are just gem-quality and the rarest and finest examples.

There are multiple aspects that play a part in the quality of the diamond. For this article we will zoom into the clarity-aspect of diamond quality which refers to the absence of blemished and inclusions.. The remaining topics will be discussed in upcoming articles.

A rare and very dramatic inclusion; a small garnet inside a diamond

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Louis Cartier Tank goes Nightlife!

The Louis Cartier Tank, although it was not Cartier’s first Tank model, has always been THÉ Tank,
that brought Cartier fame and recognition. When people mention the Cartier Tank, this is the model where usually is referred to. This despite the fact that it was a smaller watch, and could not even come close to the sales figures of the Must de Cartier Tank, which resembles it quite a bit. And even now, in 2012, it is also available in a larger LC Tank XL case, this watch still remains THÉ Tank!

How two rows of diamonds can bring out another side of the Louis Cartier Tank XL, but still can maintain it as a true classic!

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Diamond Watch of the Week; Franck Muller Giga Tourbillon

If there is one watchmaker who has shown a consistent passion for diamonds on his men’s watches it has to be Franck Muller. One could say that this passion is almost as large as his love for complicated timepieces. As self-proclaimed Master of Complications he has surprised the world numerous times with unique complications, and more often than not also released diamond set men’s versions of the watch.

A statement piece for sure, yet also an ambassador of complicated watchmaking

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An Interview with Morten Linde about the New Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Black Diamond

Recently Linde Werdeling introduced its very first diamond set men’s watch; the SpidoSpeed Black Diamond. A surprising move for a brand mainly known for their functional and though-through sports-watches. Enough reason for us to ask Morten Linde, co-founder and designer of the brand, a couple of questions about how this special version of the SpidoSpeed became a reality;

Linde Werdelin’s SpideSpeed Black Diamonds also features a Mother-of-Pearl dial

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Diamond Watch of the Week; Rolex Day-Date

Rolex is perhaps the Swiss brand that sells the most diamond-set watches to men. It is also a brand that can be credited by making diamond-set watches affordable. This may sound a bit strange, but where most brands only offer gold models set with diamonds, Rolex is more then happy to sell you also steel/gold watches with diamond bezels or dials. Also the fact that they offer specific parts of the watch set with diamonds makes them not only more acceptable to a larger group of men, but also relatively affordable.

Rolex Day-Date ref.118206; Very precious, yet quite understated

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